For one of the final pieces of the evo’s track prep, I decided it would be prudent to install an oil cooler, to keep the oil in it’s optimal temp range during these hot lapping sessions. After doing some research, I decided to go with a Setrab oil cooler, one of the top names in the business. Maperformance then adds the brackets, bolts, lines, and AN fittings to put it all together. They have two line options, traditional steel and lightweight braided, and I decided to go with the braided lines.
This mod should help me deal with the added heat from doing track events on the engine oil side, and should keep oil temps cooler by 20-30 degrees, if it is anything like the Mishimoto oil cooler.
Do all work at your own risk – as I didn’t feel comfortable assembling the AN lines, I had my shop do this for me.
After removing the front bumper, you can locate the oil cooler on the passenger’s side, in front of the wheel well.
The OEM oil cooler is held on by 4 12mm bolts and has two oil lines running to the oil filter sandwich plate which will need to be removed.
Step 1. Remove the oil filter. Remember to use an oil pan to catch the oil. This will also give a good view of the two lines that are connecting the oil cooler to the sandwich plate. The top line on the oil cooler attaches to the highest line on the sandwich plate, and the bottom line to the bottom of the sandwich plate.
Step 2. Remove the oil lines from the sandwich plate. I started with the bottom line, which will leak oil. Both lines take 24mm sockets.
Removing the upper/side line may take some finagling/pushing the black plastic out of the way.
You can then remove the 4 12mm bolts holding the oil cooler to the car.
MAP/Setrab Oil Cooler:
Comes with lines, brackets, AN fittings, and oil cooler itself.
There’s no diagram for how the brackets mount to oil cooler, so I’ve attached the image here. They use 10mm bolts and nuts, and there is a lot of adjustability. I’d suggest tightening them lightly until it is mounted up. The brackets are straightforward and can be figured out by comparing it to the OEM cooler. The Setrab oil cooler is much longer than the OEM cooler, but still fits in the OEM location.
I had SPS assemble the AN lines for me, and we decided to leave the 90 degree fitting on the top portion loose until I figured out the angle. This turned out to be a mistake – go ahead and tighten the 90 degree fitting on the top to point straight down. This will be much, much easier than attempting to tighten it on the car. I had to remove the oil cooler after mounting to tighten this, and then mounted the cooler back on the car.
After SPS assembled the lines and mounted them to the oil cooler, the oil cooler was ready to be mounted to the OEM location. Replace the 4 12mm bolts. More clearance here than it looks like in these photos.
Attach the fittings to the sandwich plate next. These can be tightened on with a 24mm socket, and have a copper crush washer.
Then attach the lines to the fittings on the sandwich plate, being careful not to overtighten. They seem to take a 1″ or so wrench, I tightened using my larger adjustable wrench.
Then reinstall the oil filter, and add a small amount of oil to make up for the lost amount. Aside from reinstalling the front bumper, this is now done! Keep an eye on the connectors to make sure they don’t leak, and be prepared to tighten extra if needed. Would recommend running the car for a little before reassembling to watch the cooler & fittings. Plenty of clearance below, will have to see how things look once the new Racefab oil pan is on the car.